A Travellerspoint blog

Nuremberg - One of the Loveliest German Towns.

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Hospital of the Holy Ghost - Nürnberg

Hospital of the Holy Ghost - Nürnberg

Nuremberg: Beautiful Historic Town.

Nuremberg is easily the most beautiful German town I have ever visited. The old town has a wonderful castle, stunning churches and town squares, wonderful old Franconian buildings and the loveliest river walk I have ever done. Add to that sculptures, statues, fountains, markets and great places to eat and drink. We lived on Nuremberger sausages for two days they were delicious and I'm not even that fond of sausages.

Door knocker. - Nürnberg

Door knocker. - Nürnberg

This was my first visit to Nuremberg and we had originally intended only to stop for one night, but when I read the VT pages on it, it sounded wonderful, so I persuaded my husband that we must stop for two nights. We were glad we did.

Carving on church facade. - Nürnberg

Carving on church facade. - Nürnberg

War time Nuremberg.

Nuremberg was also famous for more sinister reasons and we spent an afternoon looking around the park where the famous Nuremberg rallies once took place. It is such a peaceful place now with lakes, greenery, birds, flowers, people canoeing, jogging, cycling, roller blading. Reminders of the past include the Zeppelin Stadium where Hitler once addressed the crowds from his little podium in front of a replica of the altar of Pergammon. Also the Grosse Strasse which was intended to stretch all the way to the castle in the old town, but was never completed and the Kongresshalle, modelled on the colliseum and now an empty shell part of which houses the Nuremberg symphony orchestra and part of which houses the Museum of Documentation. We got there by taking the S2 line from the hauptbahnhof to Dutzendteich Station. Exit the station and go right.

Ibis Nuernberg Altstadt: Great Location.

This hotel is right next to Nuremberg Station. Exit the old town exit, walk straight ahead for one minute you are there, Easy walking distance to all the sights. Restaurants close by and an Aldi supermarket immediately opposite. The room is typically Ibis basic but clean and comfortable, No tea/coffee/no safe. Although we generally had hot water, we did both have to have cold showers due to lack of hot water once on our two night stay. We were at the back of the hotel and did not find it noisy, We did not eat breakfast at the hotel. Staff were pleasant enough without being effusive. Check in/ check out was quick and efficient. If you got to Nuremberg using a train ticket from another destination in Germany, you can use the S-bahn on your day of travel for free. For example, if you want to go the site of the Nuremberg rallies, grosse strasse or the kongresshall. I would stay here again due to the convenience o the location. Stayed July 2012, travelled as a couple. Address: Koenigstrasse 74, Nuremberg, Bavaria, 90402, Germany.

Kaiserburg Castle.

Kaiserburg Castle is situated on a small hill overlooking Nuremberg's old town. Much of the castle and gardens can be wandered around free of charge. You only pay entry to go up a tower or into a museum. We only looked at the free parts. The castle consists of several towers, several buildings and stretches of wall. There is a viewing point which affords lovely views over Nuremberg, lovely castle gardens. The toilets were located here and I was very glad to find them, too I can tell you. Near the gardens there is a viewing platform which overlooks Durer's House and square. You can enjoy a spectacular view and take a great photo from there.

Nuremberg Castle - Nürnberg

Nuremberg Castle - Nürnberg

Nuremberg Castle - Nürnberg

Nuremberg Castle - Nürnberg

Nuremberg Castle. - Nürnberg

Nuremberg Castle. - Nürnberg

The Marriage Fountain: Ehekarussell.

The Marriage Fountain is on Karolinestrasse near the White Tower UStation. This sculpture seems to specialize in the horrors of marriage with couples strangling each other; couples where one is huge and stuffing her face, while the other is starving and skeletal; couples surrounded by demanding children; couples where one wants to be quiet and the other is blowing a trumpet in her face. Guess the sculptor was not too happily married or had a weird sense of humour. It was quite funny. Nearby is the white tower, Elizabeth church and another church. The fountain is supposedly based on a poem called Bittersweet Marital life by Hans Sachs.

Marriage Fountain. - Nürnberg

Marriage Fountain. - Nürnberg

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Frauenkirche:Church of Our Lady.

The Frauenkirche overlooks Haupt Markt Platz. This church has lovely carvings on the outside and is peaceful on the inside. According to our friend who is a long time resident of Nuremberg, it is from this church that the Christ kind opens Nuremberg's annual Christmas Market. There is also a mechanical clock on the front of the church. Every day at noon 7 elector figures come out of the clock to pay homage to King Karl IV.

Frauenkirche - Nürnberg

Frauenkirche - Nürnberg

Frauenkirche - Nürnberg

Frauenkirche - Nürnberg

Hauptmarkt Platz.

Haupt Markt Platz is a large square containing the Schonner Brunnen Beautiful Fountain. At the time of our visit there was a colourful fruit, vegetable and flower market taking place here. The Frauenkirche and the new rathaus overlook this square. There are also several restaurants and a little supermarket here, too.

My husband on Hauptmarkt - Nürnberg

My husband on Hauptmarkt - Nürnberg

The Beautiful Fountain. - Nürnberg

The Beautiful Fountain. - Nürnberg

Shop Signs

Shop Signs

Tiergartentor Platz: Albrecht Duerer House.

This beautiful square has wonderful old Franconian houses, Durer's House, a slaughtered hare statue, a well. There is a wonderful viewpoint over this square from the castle gardens. You can access the castle from here by going up the steps or through the archway, though that is a much longer route. The famous artist Durer's house is on this square and there is a statue of him down the hill a bit on Durerplatz.

Tiergartentor Square - Nürnberg

Tiergartentor Square - Nürnberg

St Lorenzkirche.

We did not go inside this church. I think it was not open, but we did look at the wonderful carvings on the outside including the carving of the devil crushing a terrified naughty child.

Carving on facade of Lorenzkirche - Nürnberg

Carving on facade of Lorenzkirche - Nürnberg

St Seabald's Church: Sebalduskirche.

This is a beautiful church with several lovely carvings on the outside. Entry is free, give an optional donation towards the upkeep of the church. Inside is peaceful with many lovely stained glass windows and paintings. There was an exhibition of old photos showing the square around the church in Hitler's time with swastikas hanging from all the windows of the surrounding houses. This interested me, because I have just finished reading The Book Thief a novel set in wartime Munich. It tells the story of a German family who hide a Jew in their basement. In one scene they are panicking because they have to hang their flag out of the window, but cannot find it. Saint Seabald's was flattened by bombs in 1945 and some of the other photos show the damage and devastation that was done to this lovely building. They then go on to show the restoration and rebuilding that took place. So the exhibition is about triumph over despair. There was a cross of nails on display on one of the church's pillars. This was made from three nails retrieved from the smouldering remains of Coventry Cathedral's spire. Coventry Cathedral was flattened in 1940. The cross was given/lent by the people of Coventry and, for me anyway, was a powerful symbol of the unity felt by those who have suffered in a war regardless of what side they were on.

Nail Cross - Nürnberg

Nail Cross - Nürnberg

Beautiful Pegnitz River.

The walk along this river is truely stunning We started from the bridge near the Holy Ghost Hospital and explored both directions to the limits of the old city. If you are on the bridge near the Holy Ghost Hospital looking towards the castle the loveliest stretch of river is off to the left. You will find many bridges, little waterfalls, the hangman's house (apparently the hangman lived away from everyone else as he was so unpopular due to his profession) towers, statues and fantastic views. This was my favourite part of Nuremberg. The walk to the right from the hospital is also lovely, but if you can only do one side, go left. This river flooded really badly in 1909. We found the high water mark and saw pictures of the Haupt Mark under water.

River Pegnitz. - Nürnberg

River Pegnitz. - Nürnberg

River Pegnitz - Nürnberg

River Pegnitz - Nürnberg

River Pegnitz - Nürnberg

River Pegnitz - Nürnberg

Hangman - Nürnberg

Hangman - Nürnberg

Nazi rally grounds: Zeppelinfeld.

We spent an afternoon looking around the park where the famous Nuremberg rallies once took place. It is such a peaceful place now with lakes, greenery, birds, flowers, people canoeing, jogging, cycling, roller blading. Reminders of the past include the Zeppelin Stadium where Hitler once addressed the crowds from his little podium in front of a replica of the altar of Pergammon. Also the Grosse Strasse which was intended to stretch all the way to the castle in the old town, but was never completed and the Kongresshalle, modelled on the Colosseum and now an empty shell part of which houses the Nuremberg symphony orchestra and part of it houses the museum of Documentation. We got there by taking the S2 line from the hauptbahnhof to Dutzendteich Station. Exit the station and go right.

Kongresshalle - Nürnberg

Kongresshalle - Nürnberg

Inside Kongresshalle. - Nürnberg

Inside Kongresshalle. - Nürnberg

Zeppelin Stadium - Nürnberg

Zeppelin Stadium - Nürnberg

War time picture from eppelin Stadium - Nürnberg

War time picture from eppelin Stadium - Nürnberg

Looking towards the kongresshalle - Nürnberg

Looking towards the kongresshalle - Nürnberg

Grosse Strasse - Nürnberg

Grosse Strasse - Nürnberg

Lauf Village.

We are very fortunate in that we have a friend who lives in Nuremberg. This summer she took us by car to the village of Lauf. Lauf would also be perfectly easy to reach by public transport as it is on the S1 line from Nuremberg. Lauf has wonderful Saxon style architecture. It is not a big place, but it is very, very pretty. It has a lovely old town square with town hall and church. This is a pleasant place to sit and eat or drink in one of the open air cafes.

Lauf Village

Lauf Village

Lauf Village

Lauf Village

Lauf Village

Lauf Village

Lauf Village

Lauf Village

Lauf Village

Lauf Village

Lauf Castle.

Lauf also has a castle which dates from 1360. At the moment you can admire the outside of the building and wander through its courtyard. According to our friend there are plans to develop the castle and open it up as a museum.

Lauf Castle

Lauf Castle

Lauf Castle

Lauf Castle

Lauf Castle

Lauf Castle

Pegnitz River.

Lauf like Nuremberg and Fuerth is located on the lovely Pegnitz River. It would be lovely to take a long walk along the banks of this river. Wejust had a short walk along the river as we had limited time.

Pegnitz River

Pegnitz River

Pegnitz River

Pegnitz River

Pegnitz River

Pegnitz River

Pegnitz River

Pegnitz River

Everywhere: Nuremberger sausages.

While in Nuremberg you have to try the wonderful Nuremberg sausages. You order by number. Minimum is usually six and most places serve them with either potato salad, grated horseraddish or sauerkraut. I ate them three times on a two night stay and I don't even like sausages. Delicious washed down with cold beer.

Sausages with friends. - Nürnberg

Sausages with friends. - Nürnberg

Posted by irenevt 06:49 Archived in Germany Comments (3)

Frankfurt am Main - Land of the Euro.

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old and new - Frankfurt am Main

old and new - Frankfurt am Main

Arrival in Frankfurt.

We usually return from the steamy heat of Hong Kong to the icy colds of Scotland in the summer. This year we have returned to Europe using Lufthansa, arriving in Frankfurt and spending two nights there before exploring more of Germany then Austria, then heading for the UK. Full day in Frankfurt We had basically one full day to look around as we are staying quite centrally and the centre of Frankfurt is fairly compact this is enough time to explore quite a lot of sights.

Our Day.

We decided to explore Frankfurt on foot starting at the Hauptbahnhof which is very close to our hotel, continuing down to Willy Brandt Platz with its Euro sign, the European Central Bank and a fountain. Quick look at Goethe House and statue, the Alte Oper building, sculpture filled park stretching south from here towards Willy Brandt Platz, Eshesheimer Turm, Hauptwache, the Borse with its bull and bear statues, the Rommer area, the Main River and Sachsenhausen.

Detail of roof. - Frankfurt am Main

Detail of roof. - Frankfurt am Main

We stayed in the Hotel Topas during our Visit.

Hotel Topas: Excellent And Great Value.

We spent two nights in this hotel recently. To get to the hotel exit Frankfurt Hauptbahnhof by the north exit, cross the road, go left, take the first on the right, then first on the left. It is only a couple of minutes away. There are plenty of restaurants in this area. We walked from here to all the major sights of Frankfurt. Check in was friendly. The room was clean and comfortable. We had no tea/coffee making facilities. We had a safe which did not work, but when we went to enquire we were told they work by a key rather than a code and were issued with a key. We read reviews of this hotel saying it was noisy, but we did not find it noisy at all. Breakfast was included in the price and was very good. There was bread, rolls, several types of cheese, several types of cold meat, tomatoes, cucumber, cereal, yoghurt, fruit, cakes, fruit juices. Coffee and tea was served at the table and there were constant refills. Check in, check out was quick, efficient, friendly. You have to hand your key in when you go out.

Willy Brandt Square.

You can get here by U- bahn to Willy Brandt Station. We just walked. There is a lovely fountain on this square. There is also a huge Euro sign outside the Eurpean Central Bank. Since Frankfurt is a financial hub this makes a good photo. There were lots of peaceful protesters camped out around this sign. In the European Central Bank on the ground floor there was a money themed gift shop selling among other things Euro toilet paper and tissues for those not happy with the Euro's performance and packs of Deutchmarks labelled made in China.

Detail from fountain in Willy Brandt Square. - Frankfurt am Main

Detail from fountain in Willy Brandt Square. - Frankfurt am Main

Willy Brandt Square

Willy Brandt Square

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Park With Sculptures.

The Euro sign on Willy Brandt Place is on a green park like area which stretches all the way to the Alte Oper. I can not find a name for this green area. It may not actually be a park, just a stretch of greenery crossed by several roads. However, it does have many interesting sculptures to look at so is worth a stroll. Actually looking at my map of Frankfurt I guess this green area is surrounding the old city walls of Frankfurt.

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The Old Opera House.

This beautiful building was largely flattened during the second world war. The people of Frankfurt had to decide whether to rebuild or demolish. It was faithfully rebuilt in 1981 and is a truely beautiful building so I for one think the correct choice was made. Nearby is the Mexican embassy outside of which a noisy anti-government protest was taking place during our visit.

Alte Oper Building. - Frankfurt am Main

Alte Oper Building. - Frankfurt am Main

Eschenheimer Tor.

We followed the line of the city walls through parkland and past ponds from Alte Oper to Eschenheimer Square where there is an old tower which I presume was once part of the city walls.

The Stock Exchange - Borse.

This is a lovely building dating from the 19th century. Immediately outside are statues representing different continents of the world. In the square outside there are bull and bear statues symbolizing the different types of market.

Stock exchange with bull and bear. - Frankfurt am Main

Stock exchange with bull and bear. - Frankfurt am Main

The Hauptwache Main - Guardhouse.

This lovely building was a police station in the 18th century. Nowadays it is a very pleasant cafe. Saint Catherine's church is nearby. As we got here the skies opened and rain poured down.

The Hauptwache. - Frankfurt am Main

The Hauptwache. - Frankfurt am Main

Romer.

The Romer area should be the highlight of a sightseeing visit to Frankfurt and we could tell it would usually be lovely, but during our visit it was a building site dug up everywhere and with dumper trucks, steamrollers, barriers, seating for a recent NBA basketball event, rubbish strewn everywhere.

Romer - Frankfurt am Main

Romer - Frankfurt am Main

Romer Square. - Frankfurt am Main

Romer Square. - Frankfurt am Main

Saal Lane.

This lane near the cathedral was flattened in world war two. Rebuilt in the 1980s by many different architects, no two houses have the same style making it an interesting and colourful place to visit.

Looking towards the cathedral. - Frankfurt am Main

Looking towards the cathedral. - Frankfurt am Main

Saal Lane

Saal Lane

Frankfurt.

Main River.

One of the loveliest parts of Frankfurt is the Main River. We walked across the pedestrianized Eisenbrucke Iron Bridge which affords great views over the old town, the cathedral, the church in Sachsenhausen and from the other side some of Frankfurt's tall buildings. People had attached padlocks with their names and the names of their partners as a form of love token onto the sides of the bridge. We walked along the green banks of the Main on the Sachsenhausen side. Up on the road were the many museums Sachsenhausen is famous for. Despite the fact it had been pouring down earlier, the sun suddenly came out. We passed a little Turkish boat called Meral's Imbiss and bought some ayran for me, beer for my husband and some sheep cheese filled sigara borek. We sat on a park bench, enjoyed the sun and watched the world pass by. Bliss! On the other side of the Main, not far from Willy Brandt Square and the new opera are the Niazza Gardens which stretch along the banks of the Main. These are flower filled and lovely for a stroll.

Main River - Frankfurt am Main

Main River - Frankfurt am Main

On the River Main. - Frankfurt am Main

On the River Main. - Frankfurt am Main

Sachsenhausen.

If you cross the Main River on the Eisenbrucke, then walk straight up Elisabethstrasse and cross the road at the second set of traffic lights near a blue house, you will get to the entrance to Alte Sachsenhausen. There is a street plan of the area on the ground near the entrance. This area consists of cobbled streets and old houses which have been converted into restaurants and bars. The prices were very reasonable and many places sell apfelwei the local tipple (have to admit I personally did not like it give me beer any day). There were also some lovely little statues and the famous Frau Rauscher spitting statue. This statue spits out water at passers by at irregular intervals. I was unaware of its existence and was wondering why water kept shooting across the road ahead of me. Fortunately for me she missed me, but we stood and watched her indulge in her bad spitting habit for a while. Alte Sachsenhausen is a lovely area for a stroll or a meal.

Alte Sachsenhausen. - Frankfurt am Main

Alte Sachsenhausen. - Frankfurt am Main

Alte Sachsenhausen - Frankfurt am Main

Alte Sachsenhausen - Frankfurt am Main

The spitting statue. - Frankfurt am Main

The spitting statue. - Frankfurt am Main

Nizza Gardens.

These gardens are situated on the north bank of the Main. We returned here on route back to Hong Kong as we only looked at the start of the gardens last time. We expected a peaceful plant filled riverside stroll, but instead there was a special event on international stalls and food/drink, live music, dragon boat racing and sailing. Oh, and torrential rain lest we enjoy ourselves.

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Nizza Gardens.

Nizza Gardens.

Nizza Gardens.

Nizza Gardens.

Posted by irenevt 06:27 Archived in Germany Comments (2)

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